Exploring the park I have been living in for the past 8
weeks with my family only made me fall in love with the Smokies more. They
arrived on the night of Wednesday the 22nd, car piled high with
food, suitcases, and the two dogs (yes, that’s right). We rented a cabin in
Wear Valley, a quiet, beautiful area just west of the national park. There are
so many cabins to rent in Tennessee that you can easily find a fully furnished
two-story house to rent for less than an average hotel room, and certainly less
than any hotel room in Gatlinburg.
Early on the morning of the 23rd, I took my family up to Grotto Falls, starting up the trailhead at 7:30 a.m. The air was humid, but not yet hot, as we snaked our way up the mountain-side to the tropical-esque waterfall. My favorite part about this waterfall is that the trail leads you directly behind it, allowing hikers to reach out from behind and collect fresh mountain water in their hands to cool off. Though my family was at first skeptical of the early start, on the way down the one and a half mile trail we began to see droves of families, sometimes forming a line of twenty or more up the hill. There’s something to be said for the early birds.
Early on the morning of the 23rd, I took my family up to Grotto Falls, starting up the trailhead at 7:30 a.m. The air was humid, but not yet hot, as we snaked our way up the mountain-side to the tropical-esque waterfall. My favorite part about this waterfall is that the trail leads you directly behind it, allowing hikers to reach out from behind and collect fresh mountain water in their hands to cool off. Though my family was at first skeptical of the early start, on the way down the one and a half mile trail we began to see droves of families, sometimes forming a line of twenty or more up the hill. There’s something to be said for the early birds.
The next morning our alarms rang at 3:30 in the morning, and
we rose with sleepy eyes and dragging feet and piled into the car once more. We
arrived at the base of Clingmans Dome by 5:30, and climbed the steep half mile
to the observation tower under the stars, so high above the surrounding valleys
and peaks that we felt like we were part of the heavens. As we reached the top
of the tower, the sun was just beginning to color the sky. Around us, the
clouds were still low in the valleys, and the dome we stood on was like an
island floating in the mist. The bluish clouds moved and flowed like an ocean
around the highest peaks.
The sky turned pink and orange, and the layers of mountains before us were blue and purple, looking iconically “smoky”. As the sun rose over the crest of the tallest peaks, it cast its rays over the mountains, clouds, and trees. I stood watching it, in awe and wonder, knowing that it was one of the most beautiful views I had ever seen.
We stopped at Newfound Gap on the drive back down the
mountain, and the traffic in the park was already picking up by 8.
By 8:30 Justin and I were hiking up to Chimney Tops,
crossing bridges and climbing too many stairs to count. We reached the rock
scramble (after a hike that I would rather not do again) and we were in the
clouds, completely surrounded by a mist that swirled around the summit of the
mountain. I slid my way up half of the pinnacle, leaving Justin to climb the
rest alone. I was content settled into the ledge I had found. We sat on the
mountain for nearly an hour, watching adults and families alike attempt the
steep climb to the top, some changing their minds and turning around halfway
up. It was only 10:30, and yet it felt as though we had been awake for days.
We also
stopped at the Craftsmen’s Fair in Gatlinburg, where we were treated to a live
bluegrass show featuring a comedian and a fiddle player who even performed
“Orange Blossom Special” by heart. The rest of our afternoons were spent
sleeping, cooking delicious dinners, and playing Settlers of Catan. A relaxing
way to end the days!
On Saturday I promised Justin that it would be our last
early morning as we once again loaded the car at 5 a.m. The mountains were
black against the starry sky as we drove through Wear Valley toward the park,
winding our way along Little River Road to Cades Cove. We arrived in the cove by
6:15 and waited in line to rent bikes for the morning. The air was thick and
heavy, and as we pedaled into the cove my heart sank: the mist in the valley
had not yet risen, and we were completely enveloped in the clouds that were still
hanging below the mountains.
The ride was still beautiful as we kept a sharp eye out for wildlife, spotting only a few deer for the duration of the journey. We pulled over to explore churches, cemeteries, and cabins. A few miles into the loop my dad stopped near a park volunteer to get help with his bike brakes, and I slowed my bike near the edge of the road, looking up to stare across the valley. And to my enormous joy, the clouds were finally beginning to lift, and the peak of the mountains became visible!
By 9 o’ clock we were halfway around the loop, and we
stopped at the visitor center to explore the historical buildings nearby. We
came to the Cable Mill, its water wheel still spinning with the power of the
creek, and walked inside the dusty building. We were greeted by a happy elderly
man who had worked as an interpreter in this mill for years. He talked to us
about the history of the mill, eyes crinkling as he smiled through his story,
and explained how it still runs to produce cornmeal. He reached under a wooden
shelf and collected the falling powder in his hand, passing it to us. How
incredible that this mill—once an essential link in a farming mountain
community—was still running almost 150 years later!
The rest of the ride was more beautiful than ever, with
sun-covered hillsides and grasses illuminated by the morning light. We
successfully made it around the eleven-mile loop before the cars that entered
at 10 a.m. caught up to us, and treated ourselves to ice cream at the
campground store.
On Sunday we had a later start, as promised, and spent most
of the day hanging around the cabin. We went to nearby Townsend for lunch at
the Trailhead Steakhouse (would definitely recommend) and picked up groceries
to stock up my house in the park. On Monday morning my family dropped me off at
headquarters for work on their way out of town.
Thank you so much for visiting me, Mom, Dad, and Justin! I
hope you guys had as much fun as I did. This place is truly incredible for more
reasons than I can even explain, and I have learned more than I ever thought I
would. Having you guys here and seeing you experience everything for the first
time has reminded me how grateful I am to be able to spend my entire summer
living among the Smokies in a national park, and I know I will miss it here when
I return home.
Here’s to the next two and a half weeks!
Lindsey
P.S. Today my roommate, Ellie,
and I ventured to the Oconaluftee Overlook to view the sunrise at 6 a.m. this
morning. One of my favorite views of the Smokies this summer!
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